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I'd describe my trip to Taipei end-2022 as a series of unfortunate events where everything that could go wrong, went wrong. Hilarious in hindsight, but pretty miserable in the moment. Perhaps it was the impromptu nature of the trip, where I booked it without much thought simply to utilize my company's "work from anywhere" policy, leading to all sorts of disasters. Think: booking the wrong hotel, realizing that the hotel you ended up in was a Covid-19 isolation facility, falling sick alone overseas, and feeling the tremors of the earthquake in that said hotel while nursing my illness.
Yet, these moments made me discover a side of Taipei that I wouldn't have otherwise explored, which made my visit feel more authentically local.
The wrong hotel gave me a peek into local life
The hotel I was supposed to book, 'York Hotel' was centrally located, near the Taipei Main Station and the office, where I was meant to work from for a couple of days. However, the 'York Hotel' I ended up booking (yes they literally had the same name) was located in Banqiao District, and a ~40 mins commute to the city.
This slight inconvenience necessitated a long, early stroll to the metro every day I was there, passing by local eateries and homes, ones I wouldn't have gotten to see otherwise. The morning rush hour commute was memorable and as real as it gets–squished up in between sliding doors and the warm human bodies who gave no hoots about personal space.
These were the little things that gave me a taste of what working and living in Taipei felt like, and I did end up still having a lovely time meeting my Greater China colleagues and touring our office situated within the Taipei 101 building.
With Z, whom I'd been working with for a year at that point.
Of course, we had to have my favourite drink in its birthplace.
Always fun visiting the offices abroad.
A cozy nook, and the snacks in the Taipei office are elite.
Dinner on one of the nights post-working in the office with Z.
Covid-19 isolation facility, but so very homely
So how did I realize this god-forsaken hotel was moonlighting as an isolation facility for the pandemic? Well, there were some signs. I first arrived in the early morning of 11 December (yes, I only had an 8 hour "stopover" in Singapore in between my Hanoi and Taipei trips). As I wanted to make sure I had a room to shower in prior to starting my day instead of waiting till the usual check-in time, I had booked my stay from the night before, expecting the room to be ready once I arrived. However, when I stepped into the hotel, the lights of the lobby were switched off, and a lone lady at the counter was clearly not expecting me. The booking confirmation from my inbox was scrutinized, before she informed me my room wasn't ready and instructed me to take a seat and wait–not before turning on the lights though.
When I got to my room, it was cozy, nothing amiss yet. I did notice that every other room in the corridor apart from mine had some sort of two-tiered trolley rack near the door, and it seemed like standardized meals were being delivered to the guests, left on their trolleys. These meals were soon replaced by trash bags, to be picked up by the staff. I put two and two together, and it all made sense when I saw that the staff running these errands were dressed in PPE (personal protective equipment) from head to toe.
Throughout the five days I spent there, I didn't see any other hotel guest. At least, none who could leave their rooms. This made me the most identifiable person for whoever was on duty at the lobby each day. At first, service was not given with a smile–alas, this was no luxury hotel. However, it seemed like word spread amongst hotel staff about this random Singaporean girl, and I was greeted one night when I returned with an "哦!是妳啊?" (translation: "Oh! It's you!"), by someone I'd never seen before. I suppose, yes, it's me, the girl who paid for a room in this isolation facility. By the last day though, the staff were all talking to me, making sure I knew how to turn up the temperature in my room as the weather was getting colder, and making sure I was putting on enough layers before I left their doors. It was very sweet.
The hotel lift that only serviced a single hotel guest–me, post surviving an earthquake.
Valuing health, and time
Falling sick overseas, especially when you're alone, seriously sucks. I probably spent a good two out of the five days trying to nurse myself back to health, made easier with the wonders of Asia's 7-11/ Family Mart stores and apple milk, a beverage I waited 6 years since my last Taiwan trip to drink again.
Heaven sometimes takes the form of a convenience storefront serving up tasty hot, microwaveable meals.
Yes, I was sick, but I clearly still had quite the appetite.
I only had about 50% of my taste, but this still hit.
Yet, the limited time I had left to explore the city made the hours feel so much more valuable and special. Instead of relying on myself, I enlisted the help of my Taiwan-crazed friend who's practically a local. She happened to be there at the same time I was, and I knew I could count on her to give me the right Taipei experience. It also helped that this was my third time in the city and I've already been to all the tourist must-do's, so no pressure there.
And when it mattered, plans worked in my favour. Receiving this very message on the day I was due to fly was such a gift:
A flight delay when I most needed it!
Instead of moping around feeling frustrated about why I fell sick in the first place, I dragged my sorry nearly-recovered ass out the door and properly begun my trip, with about eight hours left to spare. The first stop was a quaint cafe-and-bookstore near my hotel, literally called 'eslite me-time', exactly what I needed.
Tea for one.
I couldn't resist a strawberry pon de ring from Mister Donut at the metro station, while waiting for my friend RN.
Dinner was a place called 燈籠滷味, serving up a dish called '滷味' which I can only describe as a braised version of mala xiang guo/ yong tau foo.
I enjoyed it, didn't taste like anything I had before.
The next stop was 師園鹽酥雞 (translation: Shi Yun Crispy Fried Chicken).
This is popular with locals, it's not your usual over-seasoned Taiwanese fried chicken cutlet (Shilin-style), but served in a variety of batters and cuts you could pick and choose from.
And we ended the night on a sweet note with mango shaved ice, of course.
I just reached my quarter-life checkpoint a little less than four months ago. Of course, that's assuming I'd live till 100, which is a tad of a stretch, I know, considering my current lifestyle habits.
Somehow, phrases like 'quarter-life' or 'mid-life' are usually accompanied with 'crisis', as though the coming of age signals an impending doom. In some ways, I get it. The act of turning a year older serves as the most obvious reminder that that there is a finite resource and limitation all of us grapple with—time—which is a potential impediment stopping us from achieving what we set out to do in this life, whatever that might be.
Admittedly, upon graduating and entering the workforce almost 2 years ago, I've gone through periods of burnout and over-exertion. Not sleeping adequately to complete work that's not even expected of me, mindless worrying about things I have no absolutely control over, and procrastinating because of a deep-seated insecurity that I am not good enough to even complete the task—even though I'd end up still pulling through at the last minute, usually at the expense of even heavier eyebags and an accelerated heartbeat. And doing all of the above without a clear direction of what I am even trying to attain in the long run, and being blinded chasing short-term and superficial "wins" like a good performance rating or an early promotion.
The way I see it, this form of age-based crisis is a result of a future-looking anxiety. A worry that our future selves may not live up to expectations of ourselves or others, or a fear that we're not spending our time in the most meaningful way, the latter of which is usually compounded with the reality that such a huge chunk of our lives has already passed. In some senses, it is a bit of a first-world problem, where one can still technically survive in their day-to-day as long as the status quo continues.
A huge part of this feeling could be due to my supposed "perfectionist" nature, a title that I'd honestly hesitate to claim because I could never see my output being anything close to perfection. Yet, by pushing myself to the limit, I am giving myself the opportunity to rest easy (when I finally do rest) knowing that I've done whatever I could and outcomes would be left up to chance. Definitely easier said than done, especially when the voice inside my head is my harshest critic. I don't think I've ever given myself credit for "doing my best" and I do actually berate myself with actual profanities. I would never say any of such words to anyone else, so I don't know why I do that to myself.
Considering I don't know what I'm working towards (which is not a bad thing, may I add), I probably need to do a better job at living in the moment, and accepting the fact that in this life, there is only so much I can do. One of my favourite Pixar movies, 'Soul', illustrates this heaps better than I ever will. Without giving away much of its plot, it challenges typical notions of "success" and "failure", bringing to life the beautiful but also harsh truth that attaining our achievements may not even bring us the happiness we'd expected, so it's even more important to express gratitude for your current state.
And truly, in spite of it all, there is so much to be thankful for.
This weekend, I'm thankful for the company of friends (old and new) who embrace all of my quirks, the luxury of spending time with my family over Saturday's really filling lunch, my boyfriend for travelling all the way to Punggol with me only to find that the pasar malam (night market) we had travelled for was postponed, and McDonald's for bringing in smoky nacho cheese sauce to pair with their most consistent nuggets.
I was privileged then, and I still am privileged now. I was given the choice to decide how to a single racial taunt was going to affect me. I didn't let it affect me, though at its worst, it was probably only going to be temporal anger or frustration. So many others don't even have that choice. These options are unjustly stripped away from them, mostly by people in power or authority, simply because of the colour of their skin. Countless black people in the US have been held at gun-point, or restrained and suppressed, having to fight for their lives even without having done anything to warrant such treatment. They are automatically placed on the losing end of having to prove their innocence. Of course, police brutality against black lives are just one increasingly visible example of racism - there's so many more instances that should be eradicated as well (and I am also in no way stating that all police are racist).
I mentioned earlier that we need to change. Indeed, it's a bold statement to make, with close to nothing offered by me to move towards this "ideal" reality. How exactly can we help from more than 15,000km away? I don't know, but taking the lead from some people I look up to, deepening my knowledge on black history and their lived experiences through research is one. Understanding what the #blacklivesmatter movement stands for is also a great place to start. Donating is another, though I acknowledge that this one feels a lot far removed and I personally have not done that.
In Singapore, we've lived through the news cycle spotlighting the terrible conditions and treatment received by migrant workers, triggered by the spikes in Covid-19 infection rates amongst those living in dormitories. This invisible group of people was suddenly made visible, and views towards them were largely polarized into those who blamed them for tarnishing the little red dot's squeaky clean track record, and those who sympathized with their plight.
I fell in the latter camp, and donated to several organisations that were doing something to make the lives of migrant workers a little better in the short-term, be it providing meals, purchasing SIM cards for them to contact their families, or coming up with entertainment resources. I donated but did so very silently. While I considered sharing my reasons for donating on my social media pages, in hopes of inspiring others to do the same, I held back for several reasons.
As someone who used to be actively involved in community service, and subsequently completely dropped out for the most part of my university life, it felt almost criminal to act like I was trying to do something to help (and announcing it to the whole world). If I haven't been contributing to causes in a sustainable manner, why was I suddenly doing something one-off, from the comfort of my home, no less?
It was also difficult to admit that media coverage played a huge part in influencing my decision to donate. I didn't know how to reconcile the feeling that my actions did not stem from the goodness of my own heart, but rather being swayed by what the media was spotlighting. And if that's the case, should I be donating to migrant workers or were there other communities that were falling through the cracks of mainstream attention? I wouldn't be able to defend my choice well if someone were to be question me.
In hindsight though, donating was the easiest way out. I probably donated out of the guilt I felt while reading accounts of migrant workers, and simply wanted to stamp these bad feelings out for my own well-being. By not actively engaging in any of the discussions that were happening online on this issue, I was escaping from the the labour that comes with advocating for a cause. Again, this was and still is a sure sign of my privilege. I could choose whether or not I wanted to fight for a cause because it wasn't something that affected me directly.
With all that said, change does not stop with advocacy. I'll be continuously re-evaluating how I can be part of the solution, instead of part of the problem. We should not return to normalcy. I will not revert to my old ways.